How Do I Stop My Lawn Going Brown in Summer? A Lawn Expert's Honest Answer

Most brown summer lawns aren't dead, and most can be saved with a few simple habits. I'm Troy Hillard, founder of the Lawn Rite Franchise Network. I've worked in the New Zealand lawn industry for over 10 years, and our 150+ franchisees mow lawns right across the country.

Every summer, we get the same question: "Why is my lawn going brown, and how do I stop it?" Here's my honest answer, based on what my team sees every week and what I've learned on my own lawn.

The two real reasons lawns go brown in summer

Across thousands of New Zealand lawns, my franchisees and I see the same two culprits again and again.

• Lack of water. Between dry spells and no regular watering routine, lawns simply run out of moisture during our summer months.
• Grass grub. It's one of the most common lawn problems in New Zealand. The good news is it's very simply fixed with the right lawn spray application.

These two problems need completely different fixes. Watering a grub-infested lawn won't save it, and spraying a thirsty lawn won't green it up. So the first job is working out which one you've got.

The quick test: is it thirst or grass grub?

Look at the pattern of the brown. It's the single biggest giveaway.

What you see

The whole lawn gradually browns off over a couple of weeks = Lack Of Water

Large, round brown patches while the rest of the lawn stays green = Grass Grub

If your lawn is browning evenly, head to the watering section. If you've got round patches in an otherwise green lawn, skip to grass grub.

Water at the right time, little and often

When you water matters as much as how much. Water very early in the morning, between 5am and 6am, or in the evening between 7pm and 9pm. That gives the lawn time to soak the water up instead of losing it to evaporation in the midday sun.

Through summer, I aim for two waterings a week of about 15 to 20 minutes per lawn section. Small, regular doses beat the occasional flood every time. A lawn is like us: it does better with a steady drink than with nothing for days and then a bucketful.

Grass grub: get it confirmed, then treat it properly

If you suspect grass grub, don't guess. A professional inspection will quickly confirm or rule it out, and at Lawn Rite we do that inspection for free.

I recommend having a professional apply the treatment too. Some lawn chemicals can hold back your lawn's growth if they aren't applied at the correct dose rate. Done right, it's a very simple job: one application usually does it, and you'll typically see great results within a few weeks.

Mow higher, not shorter

From October through to March, raise your mower at least one notch higher than usual. Longer grass blades shade the soil, cut water loss from evaporation and crowd out weeds.

Don't be tempted to cut it short so you can mow less often. All you're doing is letting the sun dry out your lawn and giving weeds room to grow.

What happened when I changed how I mowed my own lawn

I have quite an expansive lawn. The previous owner used to cut it at about 1.5 inches (just under 4cm). When I moved in, I started mowing every week but at a minimum of 3 inches (about 7.5cm).

• After six months, with no weed spraying at all, the weeds had dropped by at least 60%.
• After adding regular broadleaf weed spraying and fertilising, weeds and pests are down to no more than 5% of what they were when I bought the place.
• Less aeration. Longer blades hold moisture in, so the soil underneath is less compacted. I now expect to aerate small sections once every five years, instead of every two.

Feed your lawn little and often

I'm a firm believer in small, regular feeds rather than one or two big hits a year. I apply a slow-release fertiliser made specifically for lawns every eight weeks. People eat and drink regularly, and so do plants. Regular small doses mean the lawn has the food and minerals it needs, when it needs to grow.

Timing tip: I try to apply fertiliser a day or two before a decent spell of rain. The rain washes the granules into the soil, where the grass roots can take them up. That's harder to judge in a dry summer, but it's worth watching the forecast.

And always use a fertiliser formulated for lawns. A general garden fertiliser isn't the same thing.

Already brown? Don't panic, it's probably dormant

A browned-off lawn usually hasn't died. It has gone into shock and dormancy, which is a survival mechanism. The grass stops putting energy into its leaves and stores it in the roots instead.

The key is not to shock it again by flooding it. When a lawn has browned off, less is more. Here's my recovery plan:

1. Water gently until you can poke a hole in the soil and feel the water has soaked in about 20mm deep. Then stop.
2. Repeat three times a week.
3. Watch for green. Within one to two weeks, the existing blades should turn a light green and new blades will start coming through the brown sections.
4. Feed lightly at 50% colour. Once about half the colour is back, apply a light, water-based fertiliser such as a seaweed-based product.
5. Hold the nitrogen. Don't apply a nitrogen-based fertiliser until the lawn has fully recovered.

The one thing to remember: small, regular doses of everything

The best lawn advice I was ever given, and the advice I pass on, is that small regular doses of everything work best:

• Water: twice a week through summer, 15 to 20 minutes per section.
• Fertiliser: a lawn-specific, slow-release feed every eight weeks.
• Weed control: regular light applications of a broadleaf herbicide to keep weeds at bay.
• Mowing: every week, on a higher setting.

Think about the best lawns you've ever seen: golf courses and bowling greens. Most of them are mowed twice a week. Their secret isn't a magic product, it's consistency. So don't be afraid to mow every week. Do it on a higher setting, and you'll get a strong, thick, healthy lawn that stands up to summer.

Not sure why your lawn is browning? Book a free Lawn Rite lawn inspection and one of our local franchisees will tell you exactly what's going on.